Contrary to what your buddy might believe, saying "I'm Hungary for Turkey!" is not a clever geographical joke. You should, however, actually be hungry for Turkish food; it’s some of the most historically intriguing stuff out there. With meze lapping at the shores of Xingsheng Lu, we headed over to Master Potato, the newest spud on the block. Oman... this better be good, or else we’d be Russian to our kitchens at home to Czech our fridges.
For a restaurant claiming to serve up Turkish cuisine, its moniker lends itself to being royally satirized. Yet paradoxically, it all makes sense when you see the menu. The fare isn’t all traditional, but rather a mash-up of dishes drawing influences from around the world. From fajitas and chicken Kievs to steak Dianes and pide, the options are endless, especially if you’re hungry as a horse.
But with two Turks cooking and kneading away in the kitchen, we were keen on trying their traditional recommendations. The lentil soup (RMB15/25), made from mirepoix, lamb and a generous helping of red lentils, has a velvety consistency that is rich and filling. An Istanbul street food icon, kumpir (RMB30-35) is an oven-baked potato stuffed with lavish streaks of butter and cheese and topped with motley fillings.
Glass fridges located right at the entrance contain a dozen or so meze for patrons to choose from. The Turkish equivalent of starters, meze at Master Potato range from RMB45-60 and consist of a number of cold dips and salads either blended, pickled or dressed with olive oil, all made to enjoy with chunks of steaming bread. Although the hummus tastes unbalanced, the selections are largely pleasing. What is displeasing, however, is the state of the lamb chops (RMB75). A tad overdone, the meat feels dry on the palate and could benefit from less cumin.
Overall, Master Potato delivers a satisfactory version of Ottoman-inspired halal fare, coupled with the laidback atmosphere of alfresco seating, a fully-stocked bar serving alcohol and, of course, obligatory flavors of shisha.
// No. 110, 9 Xingsheng Lu, Zhujiang Xincheng, Tianhe District 天河区珠江新城兴盛路9号110铺 (137 1014 4435)
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